New York scares the bejeezus out of me.
Well, okay, not quite… but America’s biggest city has long filled me with a mixture of awe and terror. Its massiveness, its bustle, its traffic… on the one hand, for an urbanite like me Manhattan is perhaps the ultimate expression of a city (though now that I’m world-travel-enhanced, Tokyo, Paris, Bangkok and Buenos Aires have been added to the roster.)
Urbanity aside, though, the town’s perceived attitude, its history of crime — on a trip here in high school, a friend and I were scammed out of $40 on arrival at the pre-Guiliani-era Port Authority bus terminal — its status as the center of so many industries — finance, publishing, the arts — has effectively guaranteed intimidation on my part.
So you can imagine my trepidation at holding a book event here.
Touching down at a greatly-remodeled JFK airport after a red-eye flight, I grabbed my bags and proceeded to a blessedly orderly taxi line. No scams this time around, though a few unofficial cab drivers still saw fit to call out “taxi! taxi!” to the waiting crowd. Some things never change. After dodging morning traffic on the Van Wyck and Long Island Expressways, we headed across Manhattan to a friend’s apartment in the now-trendified Hell’s Kitchen, the neighborhood made famous by the musical West Side Story. Like so much of Manhattan’s once-gritty neighborhoods, formerly-rundown brownstone tenements now boast upscale condos, and check-cashing places have been replaced by cafes and sushi restaurants.
But none of that for me: after a nap and a catch-up with a friend who lives in the area, I hopped on the subway downtown to McNally Jackson Books, unsure what awaited me in a city with lots of options for the literary-minded. That nagging fear every author feels reasserted itself: what if nobody shows up?
The bookstore, located in the SoHo/NoLita area, is arguably one of the more fab spots to hold an event: a gorgeously done-up cafe with a ceiling festooned with old books hanging, lamp-like, accompanying wallpaper that’s made up of old book pages. The place was bustling — always a good sign for an indie bookstore in these times.
Best part: in the center of the store sat the Espresso Book Machine, planned as a showpiece for the event. This new device just might be a lynchpin in the revolution now sweeping the publishing business: Printing books on demand is becoming more established — Wander the Rainbow is printed that way, and many backlist titles from traditional publishers are as well. But this device takes it a step further: about the size of a washer/dryer, it’s designed for retail outlets; it can print a perfect-bound paperback book in about five minutes. When I learned that McNally Jackson was going to be one of the first customers for this gizmo — and the first retail bookstore in New York City — I made the necessary arrangements to work a demo of this device into the event. In the publishing world’s mothership, this made perfect sense.
Chatting with the amiable bookstore staff and the folks from EBM manufacturer On Demand Books put me at ease; so too did the clusters of people filtering in as event time drew near. Yes! All my efforts at breaking through New Yorkers’ legendary intransigence seems to have paid off. As I continued my speech and excerpt-reading, some random bookstore patrons even sat themselves down and listened intently. I not only read my usual three excerpts, but by popular request read a fourth and responded to some questions by a noticeably enthused audience.
After the event, I had the unique experience of signing copies still warm from the EBM printer — literally hot off the press! Needless to say, I was plied with questions about indie-publishing and print-on-demand processes from some New York writers. And from some published authors as well: Lost Girls Jen and Amanda, inspiration for my journeys some three years back, were in attendence.
With this warm NYC welcome, it was time for me to get more fully reacquainted with this town, having been absent from it for almost seven years.
After a celebratory post-event dinner where we were served by a totally-cute, uber-friendly waiter at trendy gay eatery Elmo, I rose bright and not-too-early for a Midtown meander. A few New York set pieces were on show, from the bustle of Bloomingdales to the deco grandeur of the Chrysler Building (I actually went into the lobby for the first time) to the bustle of Grand Central Station.
Now scrubbed and polished and restored to its prewar grandeur, Grand Central can proudly stand shoulder-to-shoulder with its European or Japanese rail-station counterparts. En route I had to suppress a chuckle when, cruising down the street, I passed a fellow in mid-convo on his cellphone: he delivered the line, without a shred of irony, “are you fuckin’ kidding me!?”
Turning west, I paid my respects to that ultimate temple of literacy, the main branch of the New York Public Library, its stone lions clad in a thin coating of snow from the night before. I’d never been inside this building before either and was suitably agape at the cavernous main reading room.
And yes, really playing the tourist, I buzzed through Times Square. The place has been so thoroughly prettified and glitz-ified that its seedy past — which I remember from a long-ago first trip to New York as a kid in the 1980s — is hard to imagine. Though I can see why some New Yorkers remain intransigent: writer Jimmy Breslin, interviewed some ten years back on the removal of sex shops and hookers and its replacement by Toys R Us and Disney stores, remarked, “Disney? I’ll take the hookers!”
Still, the place offers amazement: in addition to its bright-light insanity (rivaled only in my travels by Tokyo districts Shibuya and Shinjuku), a glance southward where Broadway and Seventh Avenues diverge reveals an incredible, dense panoply of high-rises old and new. It may have its detractors, but the district’s pulsating adrenaline rush in many respects embodies the city as a whole.
After a tasty dinner of legendary New York thin-crust pizza, time to re-explore the city’s nightlife. Things have changed a lot since I was here last, at the end of an era of mega-clubs and insanely late nights made possible by an assortment of controlled substances. Twilo, Tunnel and Roxy may be gone, but they do have successors: I managed to get a nice groove on at Rockit Fridays and managed to chat up (and then some) a couple of locals. Bollocks to the cliches: New Yorkers are no less friendly than any other city, and more so than many others I’ve explored.
Having given Midtown its due the day before, I headed downtown the next day to marvel at the cast-iron facades of SoHo, then walked all the way down to the bottom of the island, where streets are as narrow and (sometimes) as cobblestoned as any in the Old World. New York oozes ambition, urbanity, and modernity, so it’s sometimes hard to remember the city is almost four hundred years old.
Nevertheless, the heart of Lower Manhattan boasts the ultimate shrine to the future, and Mecca for me: J&R Music World, one of New York’s several discount electronics superstores that have been around since the likes of Best Buy and Amazon were nary a glimmer. Their pricing is still boss and I found myself lusting after a new TV I absolutely gotta have for my bedroom. Maybe soon.
Another herald of present and past lurked nearby: the mammoth construction site for the new World Trade Center, formerly Ground Zero and the old World Trade Center. Last time I was here it was still a smoking hole in the ground, the wounds fresh and raw. The pace of redevelopment has been slow, but at least it’s moving along: the memorial is set to open later this year on the tenth anniversary of the iconic date, and the signature building (thankfully no longer called the “Freedom Tower”) is rising up amid its skyscraping neighbors. One of my sisters was living in the city when the towers fell, and the memory of that day still resonates.
For my last evening in the city, I reconnected with more friends new and old, and went with some of them to a rather slickly-produced drag show… perhaps appropriate for a town that takes its theater seriously. Sharing a cab home with an old Chicago pal who moved here six years ago, I heard perhaps the best summary of his adopted hometown: “You find attitude in some places, but then go next door and you never know… you may be making out with a Brazilian model.”
Riding out to La Guardia airport across the Queensboro Bridge the next day, my cab passed Silvercup Studios, where the series Sex & the City was filmed — an inspirational and aspirational bit of television for so many of us (well, at least me, who’s memorized practically every episode). After an absence of so many years, the city really shone for me this time around, and I’m pleased to find my Empire State of mind restored.
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